New Orleans
New Orleans, Louisiana, United States
"Go because it's crazy, borderline dysfunctional, permissive, shabby, alcoholic and crazy - and because it looks like nowhere else." - Anthony Bourdain
NOLA is my new favourite city in the world and I wanted to share my love with you!
I am by no means a travel blogger but I figured I'd share in my adventure and maybe impart some helpful tips if I can for anyone wanting to visit the amazing Crescent City.
Why New Orleans?
I have always, always, ALWAYS wanted to go to New Orleans. This city is so quirky and unique and full of music and art and history. My three favourite things so, naturally, it was a place that I absolutely had to visit. So, after quite a few years of trying to convince friends to go with me to the swamps of Louisiana instead of the lights of Nevada, I finally succeeded!
Why Now?
My good friend Shelby (follow her on Twitter folks, she's a very knowledgeable agronomist and a GREAT travel companion!) and I have travelled well together in the past and were both pretty fed up with the Arctic Tundra that is a Saskatchewan Winter. We booked our tickets and hotel through Expedia after weeks of searching out the best deals and were well on our way to a great escape!
Tip: the 5am flights may sound like a nightmare, especially if you live an hour away from the nearest airport as I do, but it's worth the pain. Prices are cheaper and who cares if you lose sleep? You're on vacation! No pain no gain.
Accommodations:
We stayed at the Maison Dupuy Hotel in the French Quarter. Only two blocks away from the nightlife of Bourbon Street but far enough that we got some decent shut-eye. Our entire trip from flights to food to souvenirs cost less than $1,600/person. Pretty decent for a last minute trip that we booked during one of the high seasons.
Once we settled into our hotel and realized how hungry we were, we decided to hit the town. The food in Louisiana is amazing. Ugh I couldn't stop eating. It was a foodie's heaven. I had to roll myself down the street when we were done.
First Stop: Preservation Hall
This was by far the highlight of the trip. The Preservation Hall Jazz Band was performing that first night. The performance was worth the wait and the music was astounding. You can check them out here. The leader of the band, Charlie Gabriel, is in his 80's but is still rockin' that saxophone like a boss. This place is family friendly but also allows you to carry in drinks from neighbouring bars. Definitely something you have to see when you're there.
Day 2: Beignets, Mansions, and Rattlin' Bones
We started our second morning eating beignets (ben-yays) and drinking café au lait at Café Du Mondé. They've been serving it up since the 1860's, 24 hours a day all year round. This place is never not busy but if you can't find a table, don't worry, there's a to-go window and you can grab those powdered sugary bites of heaven and eat them in Jackson Square while gazing upon the beautiful St. Louis Cathedral.
Tip: Don't wear black to Café Du Mondé; the white powdered sugar will win that battle no matter how careful you are.
After that nutritional breakfast we made our way to the Garden District via the St. Charles Street Car. The mansions in this part of the city are insane. Straight out of a movie. Literally. We got to see the Anne Rice House and the house from American Horror Story: Coven among many others. Also toured around Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (Double Jeopardy and Interview with the Vampire have history here). The best thing about this cemetery is that there's no fee or tour guide needed.
We ended the second day with a two-hour ghost tour of the French Quarter. Our tour guide was fun and extremely knowledgeable. We hit up a few haunted hotels as well as the LaLaurie mansion. Because it's such a long tour you get a quick break at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop, the "oldest bar in America". I loaded up on the VooDoo Daiquiri to carry around the city for the rest of the tour because open liquor in the streets is legal (do not underestimate the strength of drinks in this city).
Day 3: Oak Alley Plantation, Swamps and Hurricanes
Day three was pretty chill. We started off with a tour of the Oak Alley Plantation. The plantation was beautiful. Those Oak trees are a sight to see. But the highlight of the day was getting to hold a baby alligator on the swamp tour. The swamp was beautiful and the wildlife was so cool to see. Turtles, alligators, birds and, thankfully, no bugs. Our tour guide was hilarious. If you go to Louisiana you have to see the swamp. It's a must. The plantation is great for pictures and a bit of history but it's also a slightly overcrowded tourist spot.
For supper we headed over to Coop's Place for some grub. If you want inexpensive and traditional southern food, this is the place to be. The red beans and rice were phenomenal. Get there at a good time because the line can go all the way down the sidewalk to get in.
After stuffing ourselves with red beans and rice and rabbit jambalaya, we got a little too tipsy on Hurricane's at Pat O'Briens Piano Bar (such a fun time, definitely go here!). They have an outdoor patio with a flaming fountain in the middle, great music, and strong drinks.... maybe not the best combination but it definitely works.
Day 4: Frenchmen St. and Bourbon Goodbyes
This was our last day in the Big Easy so we were determined to make it an unforgettable one. We started the party off right in the morning with a tour to St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Burying the dead above ground sure makes for a pretty landscape. The artful decay of these cemeteries are part of what makes this city so unique. I would like to state: however exciting it may be to see Marie LeVeau's tomb, Lafayette Cemetery was more interesting than this one and much cheaper.
On our way to St Louis Cemetery, we ran into a Jazz Funeral. A literal funeral where the procession is led with a jazz marching band. A true "celebration" of life. What a way to go. It was a fluke we stumbled upon that during our tour but I'm so happy we did.
Our farewell to the city was Frenchmen Street. Live bands in the street, music coming from every bar down the way, and night markets full of art and knick-knacks. It was probably my second most favourite part of the trip. Make a night for this place if you go, it felt like seeing the soul of the city. Definitely one of the better spots for nightlife in the Quarter.
And, alas, Bourbon Street was our last top. Travel blogs are correct when they say you don't want to spend lots of time there. It's one big party and amazing to take part in, for a little while. But, unless you want to get trampled on, puked on or blacked out, it may not be the place to spend an extended amount of time. Especially on the Friday night of Spring Break! It's definitely something you have to see when you are there however.
I would go back tomorrow. I know I say this about most places but it was truly an amazing city and I hope I get the chance to go back soon! New Orleans, you have my heart.
-Ciao,
Taylor-Paige